INTO THIN HAIR

Porters still paid by the kilo.......

ditto

Mission accomplished, arriving in Gokyo

La Petite Generale at Dole

A prayer flag for Elsa, with Thamserku behind, above Namche Bazaar

A stone blessing for Ells mum at Machermo

1am, not kidding, full moon light on Kangtega and Thamserku

Everest across the 20km long Nguzumpa glacial moraine

Described as a fat man in a room full of beautiful ladies, Everest looks bloody great to us

Sunrise on Cho Oyu, the worlds 6th highest peak

Maybe the most beautiful lady, Ama Dablam

Inquisitive yak

The Sherpa capital of Namche Bazaar

Lukla airport, heading home ie downhill

2 weeks up into the spectacular Gokyo valley, with views of the world's 1st, 4th, 5th & 6th highest mountains - generally stayed healthy, though Western picked up a 24 hr stomach bug in the Sherpa capital of Namche Bazaar that saw him sprinting between bedroom and the scheissenhausen on no less than 15 occassions with a turn of pace that would have worried Usain Bolt. At one point he was considering moving the bed into the cubicle to save time...this truly was the Death Zone, at least for those unfortunates responsible for cleaning on the next day.

Considering this has to be one of the most beautiful areas in the world, the place is often filled with people whom appear unhappy to be here. We often wonder if they are travelling with 'Grim Tours....wiping the smile off your face, wherever you go'. To be fair, though we had fantastic weather with each of the 14 mornings displaying uninterrupted blue sky - the environment is still demanding - the height of 5345m - complete with its oxygen levels of 2/3rds sea level, is dangerous enough to cause severe problems and the afternoon winds are certainly on a par with Ebbw vale. We did meet a number of trekkers who had to turn back due to blinding headaches and volatile stomachs, but the low point of the trek was waking one morning to find that the 28 year old local porter/guide of a German couple, had died in the night. There were doctors present who'd run tests the previous afternoon but could find no evidence of altitude symptoms. Seeing the couple sat shell shocked the following morning over breakfast was too sad, they had almost certainly shared 2-3 weeks of exhilarating walking together, and bonds are made quickly in this part of the world.

One plus point of the bracing wind and generally cooler conditions over last years Annapurna region was that it derived the European alpinists of wearing their ghastly lycra leggings...this year, steamed momos were only found on the menu, much to the relief of Western but a major disappointment for La Petite Generale.

A word for 'Sir Edmund'. We all know of his exploits, but it is only on visiting the area that you can really appreciate what he and the Hilary Foundation have achieved here. He asked the sherpa people what they needed after his ascent with Tenzing Norgay, their response was they didn't feel we could offer them anything in terms of strength, and they did not envy our restless spirit, but they did need schools and hospitals. Pictures of him adorn many homes and lodges, he would appear to be held in god-like status.........a true great.

Namche Bazaar - the Sherpa capital - is a fantastic place, set on a sheltered horseshoe ridge, backed by glorious 6-7000m peaks, it offers treats and comfort just when you need it. We were lucky enough to be there when the Tibetan traders were there, they'd loaded up their yak trains and crossed the Nangpa La, a border crossing open for a month or 2 in the year, when they wont be shot at. They holed up in town, intensely camera shy and physically imposing, Western kept his camera well and truly in his bag. With them they brought a selection of low quality tat from the motherland, as well as some better quality rugs and carpets.

Flights in and out of Lukla - the trailhead for these treks - are both exhilirating and exasperating. The domestic terminal at Kathmandu has monitors that display incorrect flight info, and the Tannoy system is inaudible - think Charlie Brown's schoolteacher - consequently, the ground staff run around shouting out departure information - of course if you are sat on the other side of the hall, you'll miss out, so people move around in a large huddle following the staff. Unbelievably it works, and people end up on the right planes, and often, their luggage accompanies them as well. The planes are 16 seater Twin Otters or Dorniers, and being narrow, they wobble around in the turbulence both up and down and left to right. The runway at Lukla is uphill, and you spend most of the 45 minutes below the mountains. Navigation is I think by sight, and flights are postponed if there is cloud, as the clouds here have rocks in.

We had great views of Everest, Lhotse, Makalu, Cho Oyu, Pumori, Ama Dablam, Thamserku and Kangtega, as well as the turquise lakes of Gokyo. We saw Tibetan snow cock, musk deer and porters carrying ludicrous loads off their foreheads. Ell placed a stone on top of the cairn above Machermo for her mums birthday, and we tied a prayer flag to the stupa above Namche for Elsa - our masala dosai mate, who enthused of her times in the Sherpa capital - who is much missed.

On returning to Kathmandu on tuesday, we treated ourselves to good coffee, hearty breakfasts, and comfortable non sleeping bag sleeps. had a minor run in with a complete nut bar in the bookshop (a Western woman) who was looking at all the men in the shop whilst muttering 'leach', she seemed to have saved the best for me though by saying 'you're every womans nightmare'!

On saturday, we return to Thailand for a bit of beach time before our final flight to Heathrow on Dec 1st. Last time we were in Bangkok airport, a message came over the tannoy, 'would a Miss Golden Showers make her way to arrival gate 3'....no kidding.