ALL ABOARD

We have been using trains to cover the immense distances - a mixture of hard sleeper ( 6 to a cabin), and soft sleeper (4 to a cabin, with closed door).. Soft sleeper gets you a 'more equal' travelling companion, who is more likely to speak 'the queens', so on the the long distances we have opted or this. Hard sleeper is ok too if you can get the lower berths, middle and upper are a tad claustrophobic. Most trains are A/C, and they all have attached restaurant cars serving up a dozen dishes. Trolleys are pushed up and down the train, fruit, main meals and toys all appear, as yet we have not stopped one, unlike Bangladesh where we wouldn't let one pass. Most locals prefer to bring their own food, and this usually means instant noodles, the trains supply unlimited boiling water, so at any one time there is usually the smell of rehydrated snacks wafting through the carriage. On our last trip (from Xian to Beijing), Western was awoken by the deafening sound of noodle slurping, the young lad had his technique down to a fine art.

We tend to get to the trains early to try and bag the luggage space in our compartment, its always very entertaining to see the crestfallen look as our neighbours arrive to find out they will be sharing with a couple of 'big noses'.